
Three hours later, we arrived unscathed. But further scathing lay in store.
We pulled into the parking lot of the Wildnerness Tours resort and campground. It was a picturesque spot: the mildly rolling hills were dotted with clusters of rustic cabins, and a robust looking restaurant/bar offered promises of alcoholic sedation.

There was little time to enjoy the view, however. R. volunteered to check us in while we waited in the car. He hurried back with news that our raft was scheduled to launch in 45 minutes. We drove the car deeper into the campground and parked it next to the food pavilion. We had just enough time to eat lunch before our lovely afternoon paddle down the river…
“Omigod guys, I can’t believe you made it!! I was sooo worried!!” We heard J.F.’s melodious voice before we saw him. He grabbed hold of us one by one and hugged us like lost sailors come back alive from the storm. Not far off the mark, I suppose.
“We didn’t know where you were! I called R.’s cell phone over and over but no one answered!”
R. smiled his signature toothy grin. He has call display.
“Well you guys better hurry up and eat ’cause we’re supposed to get on the bus to the river in half an hour,” J.F. said as he ushered us into the food line.
We each helped ourself to a plate of burger and potato salad and joined the rest of our team. They looked bleary-eyed, though relieved to see us.
About half the rafters were new faces to the four of us. We quickly introduced ourselves, and just as quickly forgot everyone’s names.
“Hi guys, how are you?” Our ‘French from France’ friend, L. is usually ebullient and as energized as a school girl on meth, but his ordinarily saucer-sized eyes were heavy with exhaustion.
“Yeah..,” he said, not waiting for an answer. “We didn’t get much sleep last night…the campground is a bit… noisy…” his voice trailed off, and his unfocused gaze drifted past us as if he were suddenly paralyzed by a horrifying memory of the previous night.
“Umm…what’s that on your shoe?” asked Boney MD.
“Oh!” L. came back to reality. “Apparently, you have to, like, tie these ropes through your shoes and around your foot, so that if they fall off in the rapids, you won’t lose them. Ha ha ha. Heh.” The answer seemed to make perfect sense to L., but I could see the glint of madness in his eyes.
“Ummm, does this mean that the rapids are a bit rough?” Dr. Bone looked concerned.
“Hold on,” I said, turning to J.F. “What kind of rafting trip is this? I mean, this is just the easy, beginner trip, right? ‘Cause, of course, none of us have ever been rafting before…”
J.F. laughed.
“No way guys!! We’re going on the High Adventure Tour!”
“High adventure? HIGH ADVENTURE?” The Bone looked like he was ready to snap. “Umm…did anyone mention that I don’t actually swim?”
“Well, that’s not what it says on the waiver you just signed!” J.F. knew just what to say to calm the doctor. “And we need twelve men in the raft so there’s no turning back now!”
“No…turning…back…” Dr. B. repeated. “Well you’ve really talked me into it.”
“Hi fellas, how’s it going?’ A perky young woman with a Pan-American smile suddenly appeared at the head of our table. “I’m Lara, and I’m gonna be your guide.’
Lara looked as though she had been born on a raft. She couldn’t have been more than 25, but her skin was stretched tightly across her overly-tanned face and she bore several cuts, scrapes and bruises on her exposed limbs. There also seemed to be a layer of of sand permanently lodged in her hair.
“So in a minute we’re gonna load up the bus! Better hurry up and finish eating your lunch. Then again, you might as well save yourself the trouble cause you’ll probably just wind up losing it in about 45 minutes or so anyway, hahahaha!”
Lara sauntered off. Dr. B. looked ready to cry.
“Don’t worry honey, I’ll protect you.” R. put his arm around his Dr.’s trembling shoulders.
“Umm..okay…you’ll protect me from 12 foot waves, sharp rocks, hidden currents, and my inability to breathe under water?”
We didn’t have much time to contemplate our inevitable demise. It was time to board the bus.

For an adult, riding a yellow school bus is a humbling experience. Maybe it’s the skin-gluing, tightly-packed vinyl bench seats, or the tortuously small air supply from the tiny windows high above, or maybe it’s the deafening motor that forces the introspective into silence and encourages the obnoxious to yell as loud as they can. Or maybe it’s the memories it rekindles of a time when we weren’t in control of our lives, when we were forced into small spaces with others who were bigger and scarier than us, heading into unknown territory, fearful of what lay ahead.
My philosophical reverie was interrupted by a voice behind me:
“99 bottles of beer on the wall, 99 bottles of beer! Take one down, pass it around…!!”
J.F. was sitting at the back. Right over the motor. But its noise was no competition.
“98 bottles of beer on the wall!”
“Woot!” chimed in S.
S. is the youngest of the group. As such, he says things like ‘woot’ without irony.
The twelve of us had all sat near the back of the bus, and now our group was attracting attention from the college kids up front.
“What’s the matter, folks? Never seen fags go rafting before?”
J.F. is the master of first impressions.
“Oh, the wheels on the bus go round and round, round and round, round and round!”
“I could be sipping a rum and coke on a patio right now” whispered R., wiping the sweat off his brow and adjusting his legs so that the skin on his thighs could breathe.
I closed my eyes and focussed on the heavy metal music pumping out of the speakers overhead:
WHAT YOU DON’T KNOW SURE CAN HURT YOU
WHAT YOU CAN’T SEE MAKES YOU SCREAM
WHAT YOU DON’T KNOW SURE CAN HURT YOU
WHAT YOU DON’T HAVE IS WHAT YOU DREAM
I was dreaming of a margarita.
The bus lurched to a halt and the passengers tumbled out. We were instructed to collect paddles, helmets, and life jackets from cages alongside the road.
We suited up. The life jackets seemed solid enough. Like the helmets, they were a ridiculously sunny yellow. The most popular feature were the ‘happy straps’, which went under the legs and locked into place, separating the men from the boys.
We looked like a bunch of playmobil people at a beach party.

Once everyone was equipped, we were herded down a path to the river. About a dozen blue rafts sat on the shore. I hadn’t been able to find a paddle in the cages, so I stopped briefly at a nearby supply shed to pick one up. I was the last one to board the raft. As I climbed into the front, I suddenly remembered the words of advice that a friend back in Toronto had given me:
“No matter what you do, don’t sit at the front of the raft. It’s the most dangerous spot.“
Too late. My misplaced paddle had sealed my fate.
We were given our preliminary instructions from shore by the head guide: there were going to be around a dozen rapids, each with its own unique personality. Before crossing them, we would be told how to paddle through by our raft guide. We had to double check our life jackets, keep our helmets on at all times, and oh, when we fell out, we had to use the paddle to get pulled back to the boat by our raftmates. WHEN we fell out. Not ‘in the unlikely event of an emergency.’
“So basically, we’re doomed?” Dr. B. was looking pale.
“Come on guys, it’s gonna be a lot of fuuuuuunnnn!” Lara was at the back of the boat, and she tried to calm us with some well rehearsed enthusiasm.
We pushed off the shore and began paddling. It was a lovely summer day, and the sun reflected off the sparkling wavelets under our (yellow, of course!) paddles. After about 5 minutes of flat paddling, we found a rhythm. Someone began singing a French Canadian Voyageur folk song. Maybe this wasn’t going to be so bad after all.
“Okay guys, our first rapid is coming up. They each have a name. Are you ready for “The Beaver?”

Smirks and giggles all around.
“Oh honey, you are asking the wrong guys!” J.F. cackled from his safe perch near the rear.
“Woot!” concurred S.
We received our paddling instructions and aimed our raft at the Beaver.
We heard it before we saw it – at first a distant whisper, it grew louder by the second; white noise, like an enormous, delirious circus crowd applauding and cheering us on as we madly hurled ourselves toward our deaths.
All at once, I felt the raft plummet.
The sun disappeared and a spray of water chilled my skin. I looked up, and right away wished I hadn’t: the wave in front of us was enormous, a giant gaping maw beckoning our tiny boat into its watery gullet. We lurched forward, paddles flailing helplessly, and in an instant it was upon us.
“Woooot! Wooo….”
Our screams were swallowed by the churning water. My sense of direction vanished and I closed my eyes against the onslaught. I felt my internal organs rearrange themselves as I was tossed about like capers in a Jamie Oliver salad. I heard A.’s voice yelling out to me, and I opened my eyes. To my left (was it my left?) I saw A.’s panicked face, which all of a sudden was moving away from me…he was going overboard!
Him and half the raft.
And then, it was over. And we were laughing, at least those of us still on board. It had lasted about 15 seconds, but it had been one of the most terrifying and exhilarating things we had ever experienced.
I turned my attention to the poor sops in the water, who with their helmets, looked like yellow tennis balls in a spin cycle. They were still a bit disoriented. Us intrepid on-board survivors heroically extended our paddles and pulled them to the boat. Grabbing their life jacket straps, we hoisted them into the raft.
This is harder than is sounds when you’re dealing with panicked, overweight gay men.
Actually, it’s about as hard as it sounds when you’re dealing with panicked, overweight gay men.
And then we were all back on board, wet from head to toe, trying to put together what the hell had just happened.
“Hey guys, that was a lot of fuuuuunnnnnnn!” Lara reminded us. “Now we’re gonna do something really cool. It’s called rapids surfing. We’re going to paddle back upstream into the rapids and ride the wave of water as it flows towards us.”
“Umm…can we take a vote on this?” Dr. Bone, thrilled that he had stayed on board through the Beaver, was about to discover that the rules of democracy do not apply in a raft headed by Lara Croft, Raft Raider.
Energized by the adrenaline coursing through our veins, we turned the raft around and started paddling like our lives depended on it. Which they probably did.
As we strained against the current, the front of the raft began ascending the wave. Then we hit the crest, and I could feel the enormous power of the entire river surging under our inflated plastic dingy. The front of the boat rose to a dizzying height, but we valiantly stroked our paddles in perfect sync, riding the fury of the Ottawa river like veteran bull riders at a rodeo.
And then it happened.
If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to be in a raft as it capsizes in the middle of white water, this photo, which amazingly, the camera accidentally snapped as we turned over, might give you an idea:

One moment we were on top of the world, masters of the river, kings of the rapids, and the next we were under water, and it was very black, very cold, and it was all happening very very fast.
I had gone into this adventure thinking that I was a pretty good swimmer, that I had pretty fast reaction times, that I could keep calm under pressure and remain aware of my surroundings. But now, I felt completely and utterly helpless. Mother Nature was having a really good laugh at my expense.
Then a thought crossed my mind: I needed to breathe.
I forced my eyes open under the water and concentrated on figuring out which way was up. The dim light above me beckoned and I struggled my way to the surface.
I broke through the waves to the sound of gasps and cheers, and I added my own to the chorus. Luckily I was only a few feet from the overturned boat, and I reached out my hand to grab hold of the rope that circled the raft’s side. I was safe.
“Where’s Dr. B?” a voice asked.
We all suddenly remembered that poor N. couldn’t swim.
“He’s…here.” said R. “He’ll be fine, won’t you, N?”
Dr. B. wasn’t responding. But we were focussed on getting the raft upright.
Some of us swam alongside the capsized raft, towing it to shore, while others hunted for our far-flung paddles.
Once we reached the river bank, it became clear that something wasn’t right with our Dr.
“What happened to N?” whispered A.
“Umm…he’s okay…he just got pinned under the raft for while.”
The only guy who couldn’t swim, N. had surfaced by himself under the raft, trapped in a small pocket of air formed by the capsized dingy. Apparently he had spent several moments in the dark in the water, completely disoriented, until R. had found him and dragged him from under the dingy.
Silent and wide-eyed, Dr. Bone was in shock.
“Wasn’t that fuunnnn?” Lara was trying her best to revive the party atmosphere. “Now can you guys get under this thing so we can flip it over and continue down the river?”
That’s when the tears started flowing.
N. collapsed into R.’s arms, sobbing. The thought of continuing this adventure, after the first rapid had turned into N.’s worst nightmare, was more than he could bear.
We decided to give the doctor a moment. As the rest of us worked on getting the raft upright, Lara went over to him and stroked his arms with her rough hands. She promised him that the rest of the rapids weren’t as perilous as the Beaver. N. could sit right in the middle of the raft and there wouldn’t be any more surfing.
We redistributed the paddles while N. stood on a lonely little rock near shore, his arms wrapped tightly around himself, staring at his feet, refusing to move.
After a few minutes of cajoling (and when it finally sank in that there was no other way to get downriver but in the raft) N. relinquished and R. helped him into the dingy. He sat in the middle of the raft, staring straight ahead, somewhat comatose.
Not surprisingly, we were missing a paddle. But N. was still hugging himself in a vice grip, so that wasn’t really an issue.
We continued on our journey.
Just as Lara had promised, the Beaver in fact proved to be the most perilous of all the rapids. Not even ‘Phil’s Hole’ offered the same degree of difficulty.
This surprised J.F., who claimed to know Phil pretty well.
It was at last time for our mid-afternoon break. Even N. perked up when Lara announced that we were going to stop on a small island and enjoy a snack of soup, hot drinks, fruit and trail mix.
We were amazed that over two hours had passed on the river, and it suddenly occurred to us that we were famished.

We warmed ourselves with our gourmet meal of chicken broth and instant hot chocolate, and we were relieved to see N.’s colour return. He now seemed proud to have survived his ordeal. He was ready to do battle with the river again, and he even found a paddle on the way back to the raft.
The rest of the rapids were just as ‘fuunnn,’ though definitely not as overwhelming. After the last rapid, we had about a 20 minute paddle to our landing spot. I had fallen overboard a few times by now, so my fear of the water had all but disappeared, and the afternoon sun had warmed the river nicely.
I leaped into the water and swam ahead. Stopping a few meters in front of the raft, I turned around and looked back. The sight took my breath away.
The sun was just beginning to set, and my friends were silhouetted by the light, which danced across the waves in front of me like electric currents. The water felt warm and the scene was beautifully hushed. It was a perfect photo op.

I turned around and saw even more yellow heads bobbing ahead of me. I wasn’t the only one enjoying the water.

When we got back to the camp, we were treated to a video montage of us and our fellow rafters going through the Beaver. It didn’t seem nearly as terrifying watching it over a plate of roasted chicken and potatoes.
After dinner we drove the car to our campsite and set up the tent. This proved to be more difficult to do in the dark (and somewhat more undignified) than I had anticipated.

Happily one of our new friends, J.B., was a camping expert. Though I still think that for the first time setting up a tent as an adult, I did alright.
It was time for a drink.
The bar was only a 10 minute walk from our campsite. When we arrived the party was in full swing. Lara was there, already on her third Smirnoff Ice and planting congratulatory kisses all over N. who was enjoying the attention despite himself.
S. (‘woot’) was determined to get me to dance, and when he discovered it was my birthday at midnight, he insisted on making a request to the DJ.
I thought my club days were behind me, but the idea of dancing to Madonna’s Holiday with 10 other gay guys in a bar full of straight drunk college kids after a day of white water rafting was surreal enough to tempt me. I figured it was a pretty good way to enter my thirties. We attracted a bit of attention I suppose (‘there seems to be a lot of queer in here tonight’ we heard one confused voice observe) but it was, in fact, a lot of fuunnnn.

The night was about as restful and refreshing as you’d expect in a campground full of drunk students on their last bender of the summer. The campsite next to us was populated by a particularly gifted bunch, who kept tripping over our tent wires on their way to and from the bar, and who started panicking loudly at 3:00 a.m. over a missing bag of m & m’s.
The theft was eventually pinned on a ‘gnarly squirrel’ which had been spotted eying their food earlier in the evening.
Morning came quickly, and we awoke (did we actually fall asleep?) to the thumping bass of someone’s car stereo. A. and I decided it was probably best to leave right after breakfast. We didn’t have to work hard to convince R. and Dr. Bone.
We ran into our French from France friend L. at breakfast, sitting in a corner. He was keeping a low profile, scared to run into the 18 year old girl who had made him promise the night before that he’d go with her to the Spice Girls’ reunion concert.
We persuaded him that she was probably still sleeping off her 9 cosmos.
After breakfast we informed our fellow rafters that we were leaving to make it back in time for dinner. Expressions of dismay and half-hearted attempts to keep us longer were voiced, but we made it clear we wanted to get home before we were totally worn out.
Still, we had time for one last photo to capture the moment.

If this picture looks like a champion team photo, well, we did feel as though we had come out victors in a kind of Survivor-meets-Fear-Factor-meets-Gilligan’s-Island adventure challenge. Too bad we only had a souvenir shop T-shirt to display, and not the head of a beaver, or a gnarly squirrel.
We hit the road and turned on the 80′s satellite radio station. Glenn Frey’s synthesized angst filled the car.
You were born in the city
Concrete under your feet
It’s in your moves, it’s in your blood
You’re a man of the streets
I was not about to argue.
From start to finish, it had proved to be more of an adventure than any of us had bargained for. We had conquered fears, overcome obstacles, made new friends, and learned much more than we needed to know to about old friends.
Next year, we plan to return with a bigger posse and m & m’s of our own.
Yes, believe it or not, we didn’t get enough Beaver the first time around.
Filed under: 80's, great outdoors, road trips, white water adventures | 3 Comments »